The Los Lagos and Aysen provinces of Chile are located in the heart of Patagonia and are home to some of the most dramatic mountain scenery on Earth. Nestled in protected fjords that are lined with hanging glaciers lie a series of productive rivers, lakes, and lagunas filled with large wild trout. Fly fishing Chilean Patagonia has long been high on my list of “happy places.” You can never really completely describe with words just how magnificent the scenery is in this part of the world.
As photogenic as this region of Patagonia is with its towering peaks, dripping glaciers, and azure rivers, it is also a place that is nearly impossible to fully capture with a camera. Even when you are standing there in person your brain reaches its limitations of fully soaking in the dramatic backdrop. My neck gets a little sore after every visit to this region as my head seems to be on a perpetual swivel as my eyes attempt to scan back and forth trying unsuccessfully to soak it all in at once.
The vast majority of the region around the lodges we visited are protected by Chilean National Parks and National Preserves. The lodges we visited are sandwiched amongst Corcovado National Park, Pumalin Douglas Tompkins National Park, and the Palena National Preserve. The Martin Pescador Lodge program is a week-long program that splits time between their Rio Yelcho Lodge and Rio Rosselot Lodge. We have long worked with Martin Pescador Lodge but hadn’t been back since the pandemic when the program closed for two seasons. Martin Pescador is under common ownership of its sister program at Rio Palena Lodge which is a new partner for our destination travel program at Montana Angler and we ended our hosted trip with a stay at this impressive lodge. On this hosted trip we spent a total of 12 nights in the region with an arrival night in the quaint tourist town of Puerto Varas before taking the short charter flight the next morning to Chaiten to make our way to Rio Yelcho Lodge where our adventure began.
Generalities of Fishing the Los Lagos and Northern Aysen Provinces of Chile
This region of Chile is in the heart of Patagonia and offers a huge amount of variety although the vast majority of fishing opportunities are accessed via float fishing. There are a few walk-and-wade options out of Rio Palena Lodge when taking advantage of their helicopter fly-out program, but guests visiting this area should expect to use rafts, catarafts, pangas, and jet boats when accessing most fisheries. The topography of the region is dominated by very rugged mountains with several medium to large river systems that work their way towards the Pacific. There are also numerous glacially carved large lakes filled with trout as well as some smaller productive “lagunas.” Most of the smaller streams are moving very fast as they tumble out of the mountains and are generally not great fishing options. The rivers in the area, however, are nothing short of spectacular.
All of the rivers have the potential for big fish with trout over 20” a real possibility on nearly every fishery, with some producing much larger specimens for a handful of lucky anglers. Both rainbow and brown trout are common in most of the lakes and rivers in the watersheds. The lakes in the Los Lagos region are unique and a real pleasure to fish. The region is famous for prolific dragon fly hatches and it is not uncommon to see trout rocketing out of the water to intercept adult insects hovering above the water. With so many different lakes and rivers in the region, guests can expect to fish a great variety of waters while visiting.
Martin Pescador’s Rio Yelcho Lodge
The Martin Pescador Lodge program is actually a dual lodge program. Martin Pescador is always a week long 7 night/6 day program but the week is broken up so that guests start the week at the Rio Yelcho Lodge and then finish at the Rio Rosselot Lodge. On the transition day you just have your luggage packed and then head out for fishing like normal. After fishing you end the day at the Rio Rosselot Lodge and your luggage is already in your new room waiting for you. The fishing guides and lodge host stay with you during the entire week so it is a very seamless transition. By incorporating two lodges into the weekly program guests have maximum opportunity to sample the great fishing variety found in the region.
The Rio Yelcho Lodge is a short 25 minute drive from the town of Chaiten where the charter flight lands. The lodge is situated across from a spectacular hanging glacier just across the mighty Yelcho River. We arrived at the lodge mid-morning and after settling into the rooms and having lunch we headed out fishing for an afternoon half day. A 7 night program at Martin Pescador includes 6.5 days of fishing and it is always nice to get out on arrival day.
Fishing out of Rio Yelcho Lodge
Martin Pescador has a fleet of fishing crafts that are located at the lodge as well as stashed on the upper reaches of Lago Yelcho as well as the Lower Futaleufu River. Depending on where you are fishing, guests may be in jet boats, rafts, catarafts, or larger pangas for the big lake. Most of the fishing in the first two and a half days of the program focuses on the Rio Yelcho in front of the lodge, Lago Yelcho, and the Futaleufu River.
The Futaleufu River is a gorgeous larger river that flows into Chile from Argentina. We also fish this river system on the Argentine side where it flows through Los Alerces National Park when visiting the El Encuentro or Patagonia River Guides programs. The “Futa” has a great population of larger than average rainbow trout (mostly in the 14-20” class) as well as some larger brown trout. The rainbows often stack up in the seams below larger riffles where a dry dropper rig can be deadly. On the massive eddies rainbows are also commonly found surfing in the undulating currents as they cruise the seams searching the surface for insects. On our day on the lower Futa we jetted upriver from a private access and then spent the rest of the day working our way back down. Some other guests on other days drove further upriver and did a traditional float covering several miles.
The “boca” or mouth of the Futaleufu where it enters Lago Yelcho is famous for producing big fish. We dedicated a full day toward fishing this section of the lake and were lucky to have an incredible day with very little wind. The reed beds are filled with big rainbows and a few browns that are on constant patrol while hunting for dragonfly nymphs and adults. I had a few heartstopping strikes by stripping a large blue dragonfly imitation across the surface. We also found a few large cruisers mid lake where a giant scumline had formed near where the currents of the Futaleufu dissipated as they entered the lake. I managed to find a nice 20” brown sipping small midges out in the foam and was able to make the connection.
We also fished the lower reaches of Lago Yelcho from the lodge out of jet boats. The lodge has a fleet of jet boats docked on the Rio Yelcho which drains the lake. Lago Yelcho is massive and is flanked on both sides by towering mountains and glacier capped peaks. The lower lake is home to hard flighting rainbows and browns with consistent action as long as the wind cooperates. On windy days you can duck back into the river system to change gears.
The Rio Yelcho itself near the lodge is also a spectacular fishery and can be targeted with a variety of techniques. I fished the Yelcho for one full day. We split our time between stripping streamers over the downed timber, with hunting the rising rainbows in the seams. Watching big browns come racing out from their lies on the flats to chase big streamers in the clear waters is nothing short of addictive.
Accommodations at Martin Pescador’s Rio Yelcho Lodge
The location of the Rio Yelcho lodge is simply breathtaking. It is perched just above the mighty Rio Yelcho. When enjoying cocktails on the deck you can watch the sunset over the towering peaks while listening to the thunder like sounds of avalanches as huge pieces of ice calve off of the hanging glaciers that drip off of the mountains.
The main lodge has a dining area, full bar, a comfortable seating area and a large covered deck perched above the river. Guest rooms are in quaint riverside cabins that are nestled amongst the forest. There is a wood burning hot tub as well as an outdoor “quincho” which is like an outdoor kitchen and dining area where the traditional “asados” (barbecues) are enjoyed.
Martin Pescador’s Rio Rosselot Lodge
The second half of the week at Martin Pescador is spent out of the Rio Rosselot Lodge. This region offers a rich variety of fisheries including multiple lakes, lagunas, and float rivers. Rosselot is about an hour and half drive from the Rio Yelcho Lodge and the transition is seamless as guests fish their way from one lodge to the next. When you arrive at Rosselot your bags are waiting for you in your new room.
Fishing out of Rio Rosselot Lodge
There are a suite of productive medium to large rivers that are easily targeted from Rio Rosselot including the Rosselot, Palena, and Figuroa. Each of these rivers are outlet rivers of large lakes and as a result the rivers provide spectacular water clarity. In addition to the big float rivers there are also several highly productive “lagunas” in the region as well as large lakes filled with big fish including Lago Rosselot and Lago Verde.
On this visit I was able to fish Lago Rosselot, the Rio Rosselot and also the Figuroa. Since we were wrapping up the end of our trip at Rio Palena Lodge we opted to hold off on the Palena until later in the trip. The reaches of the Palena accessed from Rio Rosselot lodge tend to be unique to those fished out of Rio Palena Lodge due to the locations of each lodge.
I spent two days on the Figuroa. The first day we fished the lower reaches via raft where it drops into Lago Rosselot and the second day we fished further upstream in a remote area using a jet cataraft. The “Fig” is a gorgeous fishery with everything an angler is looking for in a mountain river. The clear waters tumble through riffles and rapids which are separated by numerous pools and long productive glides. We fished bright streamer patterns as well as dry dropper rigs. On our first day we had great action right out of the gates followed by a slow afternoon. On the second day the stars must have aligned as the action was non stop all day with trout chasing sparkle minnows and other bright streamer patterns under a bright sunny day. It wasn’t your classic streamer weather but the fish seemed to throw caution to the wind.
On our final day of the program we floated the Rio Rosselot. The Rosselot is an outlet river of Lago Rosselot and like the other fisheries in the area has excellent water clarity. We fished a mixture of large single dries tight to banks and downed logs as well as stripped streamers over the long glides. Fishing was equally productive with both techniques and we enjoyed another great day on the water.
Accommodations at the Martin Pescador Rio Rosselot
Rio Rosselot Lodge has a traditional lodge structure with a large great room flanked by two wings that are home to the guest rooms. The lodge overlooks the Rosselot River and is well positioned for exploring a multitude of nearby lakes and rivers. The great room is home to a full service bar, dining area, and a comfortable seating area wrapped in windows.
We enjoyed outstanding meals each evening at the lodge that were accompanied by local Chilean and Argentine wines.
Rio Palena Lodge Program
Although Rio Palena Lodge is under the same ownership as the Martin Pescador program, it operates as its own unique operation. Unlike the Martin Pescador program which is always a 7 night trip (Saturday to Saturday), Rio Palena can be booked for any duration of stay starting with a 4 night minimum. Rio Palena is also unique in that they have both fishing guides and adventure guides. Guests can choose to fish every day, do non fishing activities every day, or a blend of both. When visiting for a full week guests can also expect to enjoy 2 days of helicopter excursions as part of the base package as long as weather is safe for flying.
Rio Palena Lodge offers an excellent fishing program for serious anglers, but it is also a great venue for non fishing guests. Non-angling activities include flying to glaciers, hiking to waterfalls, touring local town markets, paddle boarding, horseback riding, nature tours, visiting national parks, and white water rafting.
The Fishing Program at Rio Palena Lodge
Rio Palena Lodge is located on a hard to get to section of the Palena River. The Palena is a gorgeous, medium sized float river and is home to a healthy population of larger than average rainbows and browns. The Palena has a reputation of producing some massive brown trout over the years. The largest browns tend to fall to the temptation of streamers when fishing on foul weather days. The lodge has easy access to about four different float sections of the Palena. On these reaches it is rare to see other boats or anglers due their remoteness. In addition to the fabulous Palena river, anglers can also sample the Futaleufu River which is about an hour drive where they have two jet boats stationed as well as the upper reaches of Lago Yelcho.
The crown jewel of the fishing program at Rio Palena Lodge is their unique heli-fishing program. While helicopter fly outs are common in places like New Zealand, they are fairly unique in Chile. The guides here continue to explore new remote regions and are still discovering untouched backcountry fisheries in the area. Several gems have already been uncovered allowing guests to fish remote high alpine lakes with large fish, remote sections of the Palena, and a few productive walk and wade fisheries to target New Zealand style sight casting to large browns or rapid single dry fly action on another smaller streams filled with small and medium sized trout. I enjoyed three fishing days with two days on the Palena and one fly out fishing day to a remote lake high in the mountains near the Argentine border.
After being picked up from Rosselot Lodge to transfer to Rio Palena via helicopter, we took advantage of the bluebird day perfect for flying and headed back out to a remote lake. I fished on this day with Ron Medrzychowski. Ron’s wife Linda was also on the trip but she opted for some of the non-angler activities for the final leg of our hosted week. The flight to the lake was nothing short of spectacular as we travelled over massive towers of granite and huge glacial ice fields. According to our guide Brett we would be the first guests to fish this particular fishery which they nicknamed “Condor Lake” thanks to the mighty Andean condors that nest on the rock cliffs along the lake.
We had nearly perfect weather and enjoyed spectacular fishing on smaller streamers for trophy brook trout and some surprisingly large rainbows. Our guide Brett had been to the lake with another guide recently to scout it and had expected the big brookies, but they didn’t realize large rainbows were also present. Ron and I each landed big bows in the 25” class. What a day!
Our next two days were spent floating two different reaches of the Palena. The weather changed overnight and the next two days brought cooler weather with on and off rain. The dark skies had me salivating with the prospect for hunting big browns on streamers. On the first Palena float we moved several large browns within the first hour and had a few grabs without hookups. Just seeing a few monsters was enough to really amp up the excitement level. After hooking and landing a few smaller browns in the 14-17” class, Ron hooked up on a beast of a brown trout. The fish was so large we were all convinced that his fly hung up on a large boulder in the tailout of a big run. As Brett back rowed to try to remove the fly we noticed the line starting to move upriver. What we thought was a snag on a big rock was actually a monster brown. After a great fight Ron managed to bring the big fish to the net. What a day to remember!
Accommodations at Rio Palena Lodge
Rio Palena Lodge is hands down the most impressive lodge structure of any fishing lodge I have had the good fortune to visit anywhere in the world. The lodge finish work is exceptional with wood accents, large fireplaces, beautiful artwork, locally crafted furniture, a beautiful dining room, and a massive saloon room with a large horseshoe bar. On the lower river level there is a huge gear room with massive cubbies for guests' gear. The lodge provides high end equipment, waders, and rods. For adventure seekers there are also dry suits, life vests, and helmets in each guest cubby. The gear room even has heated boot warmers in each cubby to dry out gear when the weather is wet.
Outside there is a massive deck that runs the length of the lodge that overlooks the river and firepit below. A short walk from the main lodge is an incredible quincho area where the asados are held. On our first night we were treated to a fantastic asado night and enjoyed local steaks, the traditional lamb cooked over open coals and an assortment of roasted vegetables and other favorites. The quincho area had a full covered outdoor bar, a huge grilling area, a bandstand for music, and even an axe throwing target area.
Getting to the Los Logos Province of Chile
When travelling to Martin Pescador and Rio Palena Lodges we fly to Santiago on our international flights and then continue to Puerto Montt on either LATAM or Sky airlines. There are several direct flights a day from Santiago to Puerto Montt. It is good to leave at least 3 hours for connecting to have time to clear immigration and customs. After a 2 hour flight to Puerto Montt a transfer provided by the lodges picks us up at the airport and then transfers us to our hotel for a night in Puerto Varas. Puerto Varas is a small tourist town about 30 minutes from Puerto Montt that is the gateway to the lake district of Chile. This area is famous for its many volcanos and beautiful lakes. We enjoyed a great dinner in Puerto Varas at a terrific restaurant overlooking the lake and volcanos. The next morning our transfer picked us up and transferred us back to Puerto Montt to catch the short charter flight to Chaiten. Once in Chaiten the lodge team was their to pick us up and transfer us to the Rio Yelcho Lodge.
Summary
For guests that enjoy floating an impressive variety of rivers as well as lakes in unmatched mountain scenery, the Los Lagos province of Chile in the heart of Patagonia should be high on your list. Both the Martin Pescador and Rio Palena Lodge programs offer great venues to target this region while enjoying experienced guides and first class hospitality. Each program can be enjoyed independently or in combination. For guests interested in exploring this region in the future check out our upcoming 2026 hosted trip to Martin Pescador Lodge with an optional extension to Rio Palena Lodge.