With such a variety of waters to fish on a fly fishing trip in Patagonia, a combination trip is often a great idea. In April we did a combo trip of Magic Waters Lodge and the River of Dreams Basecamp. The River of Dreams Basecamp on the Rio Blanco in the Aysen region near Coyhaique features some of the most remote and untouched waters in all Patagonia. A Magic Waters Lodge trip originates from Cohaique and encompasses a wide diversity of fisheries. Getting to the River of Dreams Basecamp requires a helicopter flight over Lago General Carrera and the Chilean wilderness or an adventurous day of horseback riding. Once at the River of Dreams Basecamp, anglers experience dreamlike scenery and a fishery as special as the surroundings. Fishing out of Magic Waters Lodge features diversity, professional and experienced guides, and a world-class fishing lodge.
Travelling to the River of Dreams
Most trips to the River of Dreams Basecamp and Rio Blanco begin out of Coyhaique or Magic Waters Lodge. This recent trip was part of a longer combination trip that included a week at Patagonia Baker Lodge. Read that trip report here. We started this combination trip after our week at Patagonia Baker Lodge. Around 4:00pm, we loaded our bags into the truck and left Patagonia Baker Lodge to catch our helicopter flight out of Puerto Gaudal. We made fast time reaching the helicopter pad on the shores of Lago General Carrera. The weather had broken a little after noon and while there were a few clouds about, the sunlight was shining and the winds nominal, so it was good conditions for flying.
Our helicopter pilot was named Filipe. His presence and professionalism helped to calm our nerves. With the exception of Christine, who’d flown in a helicopter while working for Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks, the rest of us were green to the experience. Filipe led us through a brief rundown of the aircraft and gave instructions for exiting the helicopter. After we had our bags packed, we piled in and fastened our seatbelts. We put on our headsets and positioned our microphones and before we knew it, we were airborne.
To be honest, the helicopter ride across Lago General Carrera and into the Chilean wilderness was like being inside a dream. There’s really no other way to put it. You’re looking out the windows at an everchanging landscape of glaciers, waterfalls, forests, mountain peaks, and braided rivers bottom, all with the passing light of the sun casting the most incredible shadows across the land. Every so often I pulled my view from the window to see Robert, Jeanine, and Christine beaming in the backseat. If you’ve got any question in your mind: Yes, it’s worth it.
The helicopter passed over a ridgeline and suddenly we could see the Río Blanco flowing below. The water was an emerald green color. Even from the lofty height of the helicopter I could see the structure and pools below that surely held the fish of our imaginations. The camp appeared near a fissure in the mountains and we dropped in elevation over the river until I noticed the green roof of the cabins. Below us, two people were standing and looking up. I thought I could see one of them waving to us. Filipe turned the helicopter upriver and descended to a patch of grass near the camp. We were greeted by head chef Esteban and his wife Carolina. Robert and I unloaded our gear from the hold in the helicopter and Felipe lifted off, disappearing over the ridgeline and leaving us with nothing but the sounds of the river and the sights of the wilderness.
After Carolina welcomed us and showed us to our cabins, guide Andy Manstein appeared with a fly rod and a suggestion. Heavy rains had raised the water level in the Río Blanco overnight and flooded the spring creek that flowed behind the camp. “It’s a unique opportunity,” Andy said. “The browns are up tailing in the shallows.” Robert and I grabbed our rods and we all walked over to the spring. Just as Andy had said, there were brown trout pushing through the grass at the edges of the creek and occasionally rising to eat off the surface. Andy, Robert, and Jeanine worked downstream toward the creek’s confluence with the Río Blanco while Christine and I walked upstream looking for fish. I spooked a couple trout before coming down to see how Robert was doing. He made a good cast to a fish that rose, but the moment was fleeting. Night comes quickly in the half light of the canyon and our opportunity passed as quickly as it was presented. We joined Andy and fellow guide Jose Marti for dinner before retiring to our cabins for the night.
Making Dreams a Reality on Río Blanco
The River of Dreams Basecamp began as an idea. Andy built a home on the shores of Lago Claro with his wife after relocating to Chile from Germany. He had a hunch that the Río Blanco held incredible fishing, but rapids just below the mouth and impenetrable bush made reaching the water impossible. Rapids, waterfalls, and boulder jams on the lower end of the river prevent upstream boat travel. The river in between represented one of the few remaining mainstem fishing mysteries in the Coyhaique area.
After the initial discovery of this special valley and two seasons of making repeat forays into the valley, our partner constructed an Alaskan style basecamp. “From the lake where I live, Claro Lake, I can see the mouth of the river and I always had the wish to go in and explore,” Manstein said. “I brought the idea to Eduardo, who is well connected in the Coyhaique area.” In 2015, Eduardo and Andy travelled via horseback into the river to explore. What they witnessed inspired the idea that would become the River of Dreams Basecamp. Using helicopters and horses to move building materials, and with the help of a local gaucho named Jorge, Manstein and Eduardo were able to establish a remote camp in the heart of the valley. The River of Dreams Basecamp opened to is first anglers in 2016. The camp hosts a maximum of six anglers and provides some of the best access to remote water anywhere in Chile.
The River of Dreams Basecamp has a generator based electrical system, shower tent, kitchen and dining tent and elevated sleeping tents akin to some of the best overnight outfitters in the U.S. Helicopters are contracted to fly in new catarafts with jet engines. Hank Welles and the Montana Angler team made one of the first test runs into the camp to photograph and document the experience. We are thankful for the hard work and spirit of the Montana Angler to this day.
“When we came in here to explore the river, the feeling that no one had fished it before, every good-looking place held fish,” Manstein said. “We didn’t even find big fish at the start, but every holding place had fish.” Given the Blanco’s abundance of downed timber and bankside structure, streamers were the obvious way to fish. Before long, Manstein and Eduardo started to see some big brown trout. In addition to streamer fishing, mouse patterns and dry flies are frequently effective. On our first day fishing the Río Blanco, Christine and I motored upstream from the lodge with Jose while Robert and Jeanine drifted downstream with Andy. The weather was cool, and the water level was still elevated from the previous day’s rain, but clarity and conditions were otherwise great for streamer fishing. Jose stopped the boat after an hour’s ride upriver and we rigged our rods with sink-tip fly lines and four-inch streamers on stout tippet.
The Blanco is roughly the size of the Yellowstone River in Montana’s Paradise Valley with big sweeping bends and mountain views, but that’s where the comparison stops. Río Blanco is full of structure. Massive, downed trees line the banks throughout its length. Even the middle of the river is full of stumps, submerged logs and deep holes. The water color reflects the verdant forest rising in all directions. Lenga trees covered in moss reach out over the water. Fishing here is fast-paced and visual. You need to make accurate casts into the structure and move your fly quickly to avoid getting hung up. Perhaps due to the higher-than-average flows or the cooler weather, the fishing was a bit slow by Río Blanco standards, but Christine and I still managed to hook and release more than two dozen brown trout throughout the day. We’d drifted below the camp after lunch and were still on the hunt for a legit 20-incher when Jose rowed the boat into position beside a steep bank that plunged into darkness. “Look at these banks,” I said. “There has got to be a monster in here somewhere.” My very next cast I felt a heavy tug on the line and saw the silhouette of a large fish rising from the blackness off the bow of the boat. “This is a big fish,” I said. “Take it seriously.” Jose, who’s fished the river many times and knows it’s potential, shifted gears the minute he saw that fish. He began rowing toward the center of the river to keep the fish out of structure. I laid into the trout with my 7-weight applying steady, even pressure and letting it run when I felt added weight on the line. After a few moments we had the fish in the net, a truly spectacular male of incredible quality.
By the time we made it to the bank, Jose was giddy. “Oh my god, look at that thing,” he said. “That’s a glory fish! They don’t get bigger than that in this river.” Jose measured the fish against the handle of his landing net: a confirmed 28-inch brown made all the better by the realization that the fish wasn’t a lake runner, but a resident trout that had grown to this incredible size right here in the Río Blanco. Christine and I each took turns posing for a few photos with the trout before Jose asked for a couple photos, too. Later that night he was busy texting the guides at Magic Waters and Patagonia Baker Lodge to tell them about the fish. He sent a message to Eduardo: “We caught a toro!” We later learned from the guides at Magic Waters that if Jose is sending message out about a fish, it’s a special one. That night in camp, we went to bed feeling incredibly lucky that we’d caught our dream fish on the Río Blanco.
Adventure Angling
The following two days at Río Blanco provided some of the most exceptional streamer fishing imaginable. Robert, Jeanine, Christine and I all caught brown trout of a high quality in a setting to match. We fished the river from top to bottom. I even caught a brown on a mouse pattern in the middle of the day. It was incredible to see its mouth open wide to take the fly. For anglers that enjoy fishing structure in a remote location with the promise of a true trophy trout, River of Dreams Basecamp is hard to beat.
After our third day of fishing, we arrived at the takeout near a boulder garden that prevents further downstream travel. From here, Jorge would lead us on a three-hour horseback ride through the mountains en route to Magic Waters Lodge. If our sense of anticipation was high for the helicopter ride in, it was equally elevated for the ride out. Jorge loaded our gear onto the horses and we mounted up.
The start of the ride leads through a small meadow overlooking the Río Blanco. It offered us a chance to get comfortable in our saddles and to get the hang of riding. We’d need it. In short order we were in the forest moving through deep mud, across creeks, and over steep sections of rocky terrain that demanded attention. Andy showed us a way to hold onto the front and back of the saddle, which helped with balance on steep inclines and descents. Jorge would pause frequently to tighten the saddles and check on our group. The horses were working hard. I’ll never forget watching the steam rising from their backs in the depths of the forest.
It’s hard to imagine anything more thrilling than the helicopter ride into Río Blanco, but the horseback ride out might just match it. From a bird’s eye view of the glaciers to an exhilarating ride through the forest, experiencing both modes of travel gives you a greater appreciation for the wildness of this place. By the time we reached the carpark for the ride to Magic Waters Lodge we were all lit up. Jeanine, whose calm presence and demeanor made great company throughout the trip, seemed to especially enjoy the ride. I took a photo of her and Robert with Carolina when we reached the trucks. Their smiles told the story of the day.
We had a two-hour drive through Coyhaique to Magic Waters Lodge following our ride out of Río Blanco. To our surprise, Eduardo was there to greet us on arrival. We were shown to our rooms and washed up for dinner. Eduardo joined us and asked us about the trip thus far and what we thought of River of Dreams. He’d heard about the big brown we’d caught and was excited for us to experience the waters around Coyhaique in the coming days.
Río Huemules and Esteros Blanco Chico
Christine and I spent our time at Magic Waters with experienced guide and Coyhaique resident, Ives Barrientos. Ives is one of the most easy-going guides we’ve met in Patagonia, which is saying something. After describing the previous week’s fishing on Río Baker and Río Blanco, we were in the mood for some dry fly fishing. Ives was right there with us. The weather forecast was calling for sunny skies and windless conditions, a real rarity in Patagonia. Ives suggested we fish the Río Huemules where he anticipated epic dry fly fishing. We wouldn’t be disappointed.
The Río Huemules is a remarkable river that flows through an arid landscape dotted with lenga and ñire. During the autumn season the trees turn bright red and orange, making for a scenic time on the river. The Huemules has good-sized brown trout that hold in deep pockets surrounded by a mostly shallow riverbed. A striking waterfall that spans the entire width of the river creates a dream-like view as you cast dry flies upstream to rising fish. The Huemules is a walk and wade river with easy access to the best pools.
Ives showed us some excellent fishing on the Huemules. As predicted, the dry fly fishing was epic. Mayflies began to pop mid-morning and the hatch and heads kept us busy until early afternoon. We hooked and released several nice rainbow and brown trout up to 18 inches throughout the day, but the most memorable fish came on the last cast.
Christine, Ives and I hiked to the top of the waterfall. When we peaked over the edge into the pool below there were at least 10 brown trout rising to dries at the base of the falls. “I’ve fished here more than 20 times and I’ve never seen fish rising here,” Ives said. The fish were at least 30 feet below us, but that didn’t dissuade Christine. She grabbed her rod and positioned herself atop the cliff closest to the waterfall. She made an exceptional cast, landing her dry fly in just upstream from one of the browns. To Ives’s utter disbelief, the fish rose and took her fly. I’ll never forget the look on his face as he spun around in a circle looking for his landing net and, more importantly, a way to the water to land Christine’s fish. I was filming the entire moment and positioned myself halfway between the top of the cliff and the water below. Christine worked the fish around the cliff as Ives waded out into the Huemules. When she brought the fish to net, we all broke out in laughter and astonishment.
After nearly two weeks of incredible fishing, this moment topped it all. It was the coolest, most unbelievable, most enjoyable fish we caught during our time in Chile. After wrapping up on the Huemules, Ives drove us to a small creek near Balmaceda Airport called the Esteros Blanco Chico. It’s a small stream that flows through a ranch and looked to be prime dry fly water, the kind of creek Christine and I would spend hours exploring in Montana. For whatever reason, the fish just weren’t on it. My guess is we used up all our luck on the Huemules and that was just fine. We drove back to Magic Waters Lodge thrilled with a great day of dry fly fishing and memories that will stick with us for years to come.
Robert and Jeanine met us at the lodge. They’d had a great day of fishing with guide Dave Jackson on Arco Spring Creek. They were as pleased as us to have spent the day dry fly fishing and had their best day of the trip in terms of fish brought to net. We were all delighted to see Esteban and Carolina from River of Dreams Basecamp at Magic Waters Lodge. We had a great dinner sharing stories from the day and discussing the amazing adventure we’d had together in Patagonia
Río Simpson, Pantanalli Spring Creek and Lago Barroso
Our final day fishing at Magic Waters also happened to be the closing day of the season for the lodge. Magic Waters operates from November through April. It is a long, demanding season for the guides and employees. You might imagine Ives would have been ready to throw in the towel, but that wasn’t the case. On his final day of the season and our last day fishing of the trip, Ives introduced us to three fisheries that provided spectacular action and a diversity of experience that defines the Magic Waters program.
We began the day departing from the lodge for a short drive into the Valle de Simpson to fish Santa Elena Canyon. This stretch of the Río Simpson is some of the most highly regarded trout water in the Coyhaique region, but it requires a steep descent and subsequent hike out to fish on foot. Given the autumn conditions we didn’t anticipate great fishing off the bat but were hopeful to see some dry fly action as the water temperature rose throughout the day.
After passing through seven gates, we arrived and put on our waders and boots for the hike down to the river. The views from the height of the canyon are stunning. In the distance, the high peaks toward Coyhaique Alto rise above rolling agricultural land. Below, where patches of morning light reached the water, the Río Simpson glowed with a bright green hue. We descend the switchback trail to a stand of trees that were turning crimson and waded upstream to an illuminated pool that held several rainbow trout and at least one large brown that was hunting in an eddy off the main current. Ives, Christine and I watched the trout from a rock outcropping above the water for several minutes to observe their behavior and consider our approach. These were tough fish and though Christine made a few good presentations, success was out of reach.
With the sun hours away from reaching the canyon floor, we decided to wade downstream to an area that would warm up a little earlier in the day. We walked past pool after pool that we just couldn’t see into without some sun. Surely there were trout there, but we were intent on sight fishing, or at least presenting to rising trout. When we finally did reach the light, the fish were present, and a few were coming up to take dries. Christine caught a great rainbow in the most scenic spot in the canyon where a waterfall cascades into the river. After catching that fish, Ives suggested we make a move to a small spring creek near Magic Waters Lodge to add some variety to our day. On the way back to the truck we watched two enormous king salmon, their backs fully out of the water, holding in a shallow stretch of the Simpson. It was amazing to see these fish, and a reminder that the ocean wasn’t far away.
Pantanalli Spring Creek is a tiny waterbody that holds brown trout up to 16 inches. The creek offers two beats, the downstream water wider with riffles, the upstream section choked with watercress and obstructions. “Which direction do you want to fish?” Ives asked. “We usually fish downstream.” I looked at the narrow strip of water flowing throw the watercress. “You want to fish upstream, don’t you?” he said with a wry smile. I didn’t need to say anything. We took off from the truck and started fishing.
This stretch of the Pantanalli demands precision casting. You are frequently required to drape your fly line over vegetation and around trees. If you can manage to land your fly on the water, there is often a trout willing to eat. Christine, Ives and I each took turns casting into the creek in what seemed to be ever-increasingly challenging locations. Christine caught the best fish, which ate in an impossible location and then buried itself in the watercress. Ives spent several precarious minutes with his net trying and finally landing the fish. It was a fun bit of fishing and a real departure from Santa Elena Canyon.
It was nearly 7:00pm and we had a date with Lago Barroso. Earlier in the day Ives had told us he meant to take us mousing, and we needed to be to the lodge by 7:15pm for our best opportunity (and so Ives could get us back for dinner without incurring the wrath of chef Esteban). We hopped in the truck and drove the road to the lodge where we grabbed a couple of oars. Lago Barroso is a short walk from Magic Waters Lodge, and we arrived at a small boat launch at the lake as the light was waning.
After loading into the pontoon, Ives pushed us out and told us to cast our 6-weights toward the reed line rimming the lake. I’ve had a bit of luck mousing on rivers in New Zealand but have mostly found the experience a hit-or-miss affair. Ives said he’d done well mousing here in the past, and that there were some good browns in the lake. Then it happened. I heard the crushing strike of a brown trout and a sudden weight on my line. I fought the fish hard to keep it from burying itself in the reeds and had the fish to the net quickly. It was a tank of a brown trout, but it was barely visible in the failing light. We released the fish into the inky water. Then it happened again, and again, and again, and again. In an hour of mousing, Christine and I caught five big brown trout I only wish we could have seen in the light of day.
We made it back for dinner while the lamb was still cooking on the asado. Robert and Jeanine had a great day on Lago Elizalde where they’d caught their biggest fish of the trip, a rainbow trout that took a dry fly. Ives had shown us the most incredible day of fly fishing we’d experienced in a long time. The day really encapsulated the diversity of fishing and experiences that makes fishing at Magic Waters Lodge a special experience. Ives’s generosity, humor and passion for fly fishing shined through. The feeling was mutual. “I’m really glad I got to spend the last two days of the season fishing with you,” he said. It’s that kind of kindness that’s keep me coming back to Patagonia.
Additional Travel and Cultural Information for Layovers in Santiago
The capital city of Chile is Santiago. A major metropolis home to nearly 7 million people, Santiago is the cultural, economic and political epicenter of the country. Gleaming, modern buildings with striking architecture line Santiago’s business district and reflect the wealth and power held in the capital. The city, as much of the country, is flanked by the Andes Mountains. Snow-studded peaks are visible from the city throughout the year and outdoor adventure is never far away.
Most international flights to Chile are routed through Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport. Christine and I arrived on an overnight flight from Dallas with Montana Angler guests Shannon and Richard Riley, and Richard Lane and Carolina Ventura. We took a cab from the airport to Hotel Castillo Rojo in the Bellavista neighborhood just west of the city center. On arrival we were shown to our room and thereafter joined Shannon and Richard for breakfast in the hotel’s secluded courtyard. There, we introduced ourselves to Montana Angler guests Robert and Jeanine Konishi, who’d arrived the day prior and were enjoying a morning coffee.
Bellavista neighborhood has lots of shops and restaurants to explore and Hotel Castillo Rojo is well-situated for a day’s exploration of the area. With our departing flight to Balmaceda Airport and Patagonia leaving the following morning, we were free to take in the sights and sounds of Santiago. Our day in the city happened to coincide with Good Friday. As a result, many of the shops in Santiago were closed in observance of the holiday so we decided to take a city bus tour to get a feel for the capital. Part of the tour includes a funicular ascent of Cerro San Cristóbal, a high point in the city that provides impressive views of Santiago and the surrounding mountains. The funicular departs a short walk from Hotel Castillo Rojo and terminates near the summit where a statue of Jesus overlooks the city. Many locals make a pilgrimage up Cerro San Cristóbal on Good Friday, so the park was packed with observers.
Christine and I, along with several Montana Angler guests took in the bus tour of Santiago and returned to the hotel to rest and relax for a couple hours before dinner. We convened in the hotel’s lounge where we met guests Rick and Becky Hagan before heading across the street to Peumayén Ancestral Food. Peumayén is a Chilean restaurant that features indigenous foods from across the country. The land and sea tasting menu provides diners with a broad ensemble of dishes illustrating the breadth and depth of Chilean cuisine. We were all delighted with the bold flavors, variety, and unique presentations of the dishes. The meal certainly whet our appetites for the week to come.
This trip report is from veteran writer, traveler, angler, and photographer Ben Pierce. Ben's work has appeared in Big Sky Journal, Montana Outdoors, Bozeman Daily Chronicle, Fly Fisherman, American Angler, Washington Post, San Francisco Chronicle, Sunset Magazine, Sports Afield, Delta Sky Magazine, Travel + Leisure, Fly Fusion, Boston Globe, Montana Quarterly, Flylife Magazine, Living Bird, High Country News and more.